5. Clothing.

The archives:
http://www.uqac.uquebec.ca/PleinAir/clothin1.htm
http://www.uqac.uquebec.ca/PleinAir/cold1.htm

5.1. General comments.

Most list-members favor wool over synthetic fleece, due to its greater durability and ability to keep you warm even when wet. In general there is a hesitancy on many members side to depend on modern clothing solutions (Velcro, Gore Tex, etc), the opinion being that they are less robust under the conditions that many of us are out under. When selecting your clothes think about what would be the worst conditions you could be exposed to.

5.2. Clothes in the Cold.

In cold climates you need not only to keep warm, but you need also to keep from getting wet. This is much more difficult than it appears at first. You normally perspire over 1 liter (1 qt) of water each day, and if this isn't allowed to ventilate out is will freeze inside your clothes, destroying their insulative value. Regardless of how good you are there will nevertheless be some water left, and the big quandary is how to deal with it. There are several commonly used solutions to this problem.

Never letting it melt.
This is the method advocated by e.g. the early arctic explorer Vilhjalmur Stefansson, and supposedly is based on Inuit practice. This method recognizes that the water will during the day settle as hoarfrost at some point inside your clothing. By taking every effort to prevent this hoarfrost from melting, and regular-illy beating it out with a stick he was able to keep it from becoming chilling ice.

Modern clothes are not well adapted to this regimen, e.g. will most down parkas be rather quickly destroyed if you beat them with a stick. What can be dome is to keep all -- or as many as possible -- of your outer clothes from ever becoming warm unless you can at the same time dry them.

Regular drying.
This is the method advocated by many experienced northern wilderness travelers. It simply means that you as often as needed, generally at least once every other night, spend some time in a heated shelter where the frozen condensation can dry out. Most often this is a canvas tent with a wood-stove inside, but may also be a shelter with an open fire.
Vapor-barrier.
This system is based on the principle that one wears, close to the body, a layer of waterproof material that keeps all the condensation from penetrating to the outer layers. The qualities of this method is debated, with he proponents claiming that it does work, and the detractors that it doesn't.

5.3. Rainwear

There is some different opinions regarding the ideal rainwear for winderness usage. Some prefer the poncho (due to its flexibility -- shelter, vater-carrier, etc -- and ventilation), while others prefer a real rain-suit (better protection, better in high wind, etc). The general advice is to spend the money on quality rather than cheep stuff that will break down and need replacment. In particular remember that every seam is a potential leak, and garments with a large number of seams will have a greater chance of leaking than those with fewer seams.

If you want to save money you can waterproof cotton fabric yourself by coating with linseed oil. Please note that linseed oil (get the boiled kind) will generate heat when it oxidizes (to linoxylene), and thus for an initial period should be stored non-folded in a well ventilated area to minimize the danger of it igniting.


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